Surfing: How It Works
January 7, 2011
The winter waves start to roll in, green, cold and glassy:
One lone surfer appears like a tiny black seal out among the waves, waiting…
Then the word gets out, magically, rapidly. It’s like those trees that signal each other with pheromones or something. Within an hour, every surfer who has the day off or who can sneak out of work is on the way.
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Is it wrong. I mean, really wrong. That after this post of yours, I’m horny for a surfer?
I can’t say I blame you there.